Food & Wine



Let's imagine …

… you are seated in a restaurant or even better,双桅帆船A nice one!You are lunching alone and you order yourself a little""Coupe de Champagne",只是因为今天是…星期三。It arrives,极度寒冷,joined by the crispiest radishes with the creamiest butter.You sprinkle it with somefleur de sel,take one bite and one sip of Champagne.Heaven!现在服务员拿来菜单。很多不错的选择,但你倾向于古典音乐。An onion soup,a卡纳德配置(duck confit)最后,acrème caramel.Could life possibly be better,至少在星期三。Did I say it was raining?你喜欢看窗外,at people running between houses glazed with rain,coats over their heads,出租出租车从你的座位上看,一切都很迷人。威廉希尔高尔夫球很快你就可以选择葡萄酒了。Aballonof red Bordeaux (of course),perhaps a nice St Julien.你拒绝喝半瓶,you are after all alone.The soup is so good that it reminds you,万一你忘了,为什么你喜欢法国菜,当服务员端着你的碗时,你想知道你是否应该再点一杯这种美味的葡萄酒,by now precious little is left.You resist,it's a Wednesday you remind yourself.When the坦白arrives you have somehow managed to finish that first""胭脂球"你怎么能抵抗另一个呢?the confit is practically screaming for it."Tout de suite"服务生说,等着的时候,你给蒜薯取样。They're wonderful by the way.Now you go for the duck,wonderful also.一小口水,well,where's that wine?下次你抓住服务员的眼睛时,你轻轻地向他打信号,从你的眼角你看到他在初级服务员的耳边低语,朝你的方向点头。威廉希尔高尔夫球你感到安全,再咬一口,another sip of water.仍然是天堂,但现在众神都不耐烦了。That's the last you see of the junior waiter.The phrase"does our waiter still work here"never felt more relevant.鸭子变冷了,半成品。Your mouth feels greasy,the water so very plain – no match for a meaty,fatty duck.How could 威廉希尔高尔夫球things possibly go so fast from the sublime to the sensationally unsatisfying.你在座位上发痒,worried that if you take your eyes off the older waiter who seems to be making a point of turning his back at you that the glass will be gone forever.然后他离开房间。That's when you give up,吃完饭,尽量不要让整件事影响你的心情。威廉希尔高尔夫球Finally the first waiter appears again,他的笑容慢慢被你抹去,not at all rude but somewhat firm recalling the wine from oh so long ago.酒终于来了,但这杯酒没能碰到鸭子,她早就走了,在你的食品历史上,作为一个明确的案例,可以有beens和rans。

Food & Wine!!





The man who loved food

你可以回忆起在这个博客上发表从去年12月我去的地方Château Ducru Beaucaillouand cooked with the owner Mr.Bruno Borie.那是第一部分,现在轮到我给大家留下深刻印象了,以配合布鲁诺令人印象深刻的新年前夜菜单。You may also recall that I mentioned Bruno's belief (and mine) that good food and wine can not easily or perhaps not at all exist without each other.Grilled,多汁的肉和……水,我不这么认为。唯一的梅尼埃,drenched in sizzling butter and … water,a crime.Oysters and water,worst of all.当我吃中餐的时候,我喜欢喝茶,甚至喝啤酒。When I have French or Italian food,这是葡萄酒。This makes sense,not only from a gastronomical point of view but also a cultural one.Blanquette de veauand red wine grew up together.When the first ever blanquette was made,the person cooking it knew it would be paired with a simple but satisfying red.无论是有意识的还是无意识的,当他们烹饪的时候,他或她都会记住这一点。Yellow wine from the Jura region has a special relationship with Comté cheese which is also from Jura.Throw in some fresh walnuts and sparks fly.Or a cold Guinness with Welsh rarebit in an English pub on a chilly autumn day (throw in a steak and kidney pie and even a bag of crisps).Whether it's an elaborate tasting menu with 8 different wine and food pairings,the Sunday roast or just the Monday stew,我想不出一顿没有改善的饭,有时甚至完全依赖一杯酒来跳舞。Of course I am exaggerating slightly,in fact I very often skip wine at lunch.One must not be too excessive.Good food can be enjoyed on it's own but the point I am trying to make is that it is almost always improved by the presence of good wine.






这让我回到了布鲁诺·鲍里和我们在夏天早些时候一起吃的午餐。正如我所说,轮到我拿出一份菜单,在他12月的明星表演之后,我需要做得更好。It also needed to pair really well with wine,而且,由于他从自己的葡萄园带来了精选的葡萄酒,所以菜单上的葡萄酒必须与令人叹为观止的红葡萄酒搭配得很好。We have a lot of kale in our garden,丰饶,so I wanted to incorporate that.Bruno is fond of Madeira wine so including that would be a plus.Also,他非常喜欢亚洲文化,我们经常想知道哪种葡萄酒最适合搭配亚洲食物,哪种亚洲食物最适合搭配大波尔多。I wasn't going to cook Chinese food but I though I might lean slightly in that direction,cook food that was flavourful,might please an Asian palate or to be exact my father.好吃的东威廉希尔高尔夫球西,meaty,好吃的。威廉希尔高尔夫球我仔细考虑了24个小时的菜单,午饭前一天晚上我终于决定了。Kale Tartlets(季节性,healthy and fresh),chicken with mushrooms cooked with Madeira and a beautiful chocolate soufflé that I did for Food & Wine (the magazine) earlier in the year.我喜欢用巧克力结束一顿饭,a perfect way to spend the last sips of red,one of those unbeatable pairings,red wine and dark chocolate.




For some reason I had black pig ribs in the fridge.They had caught my eye at the butcher's (probably because someone else was buying some) and I had bought them"以防万一.I had woken up early and before getting started on my carefully planned menu I decided last minute to throw in the ribs as a bonus dish,and cook them in wine.除此之外,我只是准备了配料,chilled the Champagne and waited for Bruno to show up so we could start cooking.He brought a selection of his wines (some威廉希尔高尔夫球thing for every occasion) and very soon after his sleeves were up,他穿着皮围裙,正在切蘑菇,the other hand still clutching the Champagne.那天GA_A没有上学,所以她在厨房里扮演了重要角色,"helping"out,messing 威廉希尔高尔夫球things up a little but mainly being adorable in photos.索利尔插手了,我们还没来得及知道午饭就上了。一点波尔多白葡萄酒配上小馅饼,然后再去做更严肃的生意。We paired the ribs with a Bruno'sListrac (Fourcas Dupré)which is lighter than his other wines,perfect for lunch and really worked with the ribs.然后是向前和向上,,宝嘉龙副牌to start with for the chicken,then aDucru Beaucaillouto finish it and to enjoy with the soufflé.I'm a classicist when it comes to wine I suppose,from white to red,from good to better.I'm not sure if it's like that everywhere but in France we always save the best for last.

PS。So many of you have sent me requests and reservations for the little restaurant we are opening in August.It's all coming together now and in a few days I will set up a special email where you can submit reservations.We are still working on the second kitchen (night and day) but it will be ready in days.I can only say I'm excited … and nervous 🙂






Crispy kale & garlic cream tartlets

(For 6 tartlets)

200 g/ 7 ounces kale
6 bacon rashers,油炸而脆(我用的是黑比格雷猪乳酪)
5 tablespoons of crème fraîche
2 cloves garlic,minced
1 egg yolk
A pinch of nutmeg powder
230g/ 8 ounces shortcrust pastry

Rinse the kale and pat dry.

Preheat oven to 180°C/ 350°F.

Line 6 tartlet pans and prick it with a fork.

In a bowl,mix the cream and add the egg yolk,一撮肉豆蔻和碎大蒜。Add salt and pepper and whisk all the ingredients together.

Divide the mixture into the tartlet pans and bake for 8 minutes.加入羽衣甘蓝,在橄榄油中淋上毛毛细雨,再煮10分钟,或者直到酥脆的糕点变成金色。



(serves 6)


1.4 kg/1 (3-lb.) rib pork roast
1 (750 ml) bottle of Bordeaux wine
3瓣大蒜,peeled and chopped finely
1 yellow onion,peeled and finely diced
2 carrots,peeled,修剪,切成小片
1束加尼(新鲜迷迭香,thyme,sage,parsley and a bay leaf tied together) + a few extra sprigs of rosemary to scatter on top of meat
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt & freshly ground black pepper

Season the pork ribs with salt & pepper.在平底锅里加热橄榄油,把排骨煎成褐色。Add the onions,carrots,celery,garlic and herbs – continue to cook for 5 minutes.

Add the wine and stock and bring to a simmer over medium heat.At this point,降低热量,cover and cook for about 3 to 4 hours,直到肉叉变软。



(serves 6-8)

160 ml/ 2/3 cup stock
450 g/ 1 pound mushrooms,粗切片
A few branches of fresh thyme
Olive oil and unsalted butter for frying
Salt & freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce
25 g/ approx.2 tbsp unsalted butter
25 g/ approx.2汤匙生粉

Preheat your oven to 180°C/ 350F.In a large dutch oven/ cast-iron cocotte,heat the olive oil and butter and brown the chicken pieces in batches all over,set aside.Add the onions,大蒜和蘑菇,继续煮几分钟。Season with salt & pepper and add the thyme.Return the chicken to the pot and add the madeira wine.bring to a simmer,盖上锅盖,把锅放到烤箱里。Cook for 40 to 50 minutes.

When ready,remove the chicken from the pot and place pot over a medium heat.In a small bowl,把面粉和黄油混合,直到变成光滑的糊状。then add a few laddles of sauce from the pot to create a thick sauce.Add this sauce to the pot and whisk until the sauce has thickened.

Return the chicken to the pot and give it a gentle stir.

For the crispy kale

(On a parchment paper-lined baking tray,把切好的甘蓝淋上橄榄油,撒上盐。在150°C/300°F的烤箱中煮20分钟或直到变脆)。



Black chocolate soufflé(recipe I wrote for Food & Wine magazine April issue 2015)
(Serves 4)

好啊,I have to admit,this is the best chocolate soufflé I ever made!!

6 eggs,分离的
100 g/ 1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter,给拉面上油
160 g/ 6 ounces black chocolate +70% cocoa

Preheat the oven to 200°C/ 400°F.

Butter the ramekins and sprinkle sugar all over.放在冰箱里直到需要。
Melt the chocolate over simmering hot water.
Bring the milk to a simmer,adding the cocoa powder stirring constantly with a whisk,then pour on the melted chocolate and continue to stir.
Incorporate the egg yolks to the mixture,不断搅拌。
Whisk the egg whites until stiff,adding the sugar during the process and fold in to the mixture.
Spoon into 4 individual soufflé dishes and cook in a preheated for 15 minutes or until risen.立即食用。